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Size a workshop clamp to your next project. Customize jaw opening, reach, frame and screw dimensions, then choose a thumb knob, star, wing or T-bar grip. Three printed parts assemble without supports.
The grip you turn the screw with, in rising order of leverage. Knurled knob: a compact diamond-knurled cylinder like a classic thumb screw. Star knob: a rounded five-lobe hand knob with more finger purchase. Wing (butterfly): two broad flat ears for good thumb-and-finger torque. T-bar: a perpendicular cross bar for the most clamping force.
Maximum jaw opening: the clear gap between the fixed anvil and the screw's pressure foot when the screw is fully backed out. This is how thick a workpiece the clamp can take.
Throat depth: how far in from the screw the C reaches, i.e. how far from the edge of the workpiece the clamp can bite. Deeper throats reach further but flex more.
Width of the frame's arms and back (the structural bar). Wider is stiffer and stronger; narrower is lighter and uses less filament.
Thickness of the flat frame plate (how tall it stands on the print bed). Thicker resists twisting; the screw hub is automatically thickened beyond this to house the nut.
Major diameter of the coarse clamping thread. Bigger screws clamp harder and strip less, but need a chunkier hub and turn more slowly.
