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A configurable C/G-clamp that prints in three support-free parts and assembles in seconds: a flat C-frame, a small hex nut that drops into the frame, and a threaded screw. Dial in the size — jaw capacity, throat reach, frame width and thickness, and screw diameter — then pick the grip you turn it with, from a compact knurled thumb knob up to a star knob, a butterfly wing, or a full T-bar for maximum leverage. The frame lies flat on the bed, the nut prints upright for clean strong threads, and the screw prints handle-down with a self-supporting foot, so the whole clamp needs no supports. The 3MF arrives as a two-tone project with the frame and screw on separate filaments; the STL fuses the three parts side by side.
The grip you turn the screw with, in rising order of leverage. knurled_knob: a compact diamond-knurled cylinder like a classic thumb screw. star_knob: a rounded five-lobe hand knob with more finger purchase. wing: two broad flat ears (a butterfly thumbscrew) for good thumb-and-finger torque. tee_bar: a perpendicular cross bar for the most clamping force.
Maximum jaw opening: the clear gap between the fixed anvil and the screw's pressure foot when the screw is fully backed out. This is how thick a workpiece the clamp can take.
Throat depth: how far in from the screw the C reaches, i.e. how far from the edge of the workpiece the clamp can bite. Deeper throats reach further but flex more.
Width of the frame's arms and back (the structural bar). Wider is stiffer and stronger; narrower is lighter and uses less filament.
Thickness of the flat frame plate (how tall it stands on the print bed). Thicker resists twisting; the screw hub is automatically thickened beyond this to house the nut.
Major diameter of the coarse clamping thread. Bigger screws clamp harder and strip less, but need a chunkier hub and turn more slowly.
